shiksa in Prague and Hanukah begins

On this previous Thursday I was filled with anticipation. Julia was going to arrive in Prague that evening. I had been looking forward to the weekend and planning it for quite a while and I was not disappointed. On that first night, I brought Jules to our regular hang outs. There is a bar around the corner from our residence hall called B-52. They make incredible White Russians; it is fun, cheap, and around the corner, so obviously we go there often. Once we got there, she had the chance to meet about a third of the Prague program. From there we went to M1, a bar in Old Town. Our first night was our longest.
On Friday we were able to meet up with Julia’s friends from Florence who had also traveled to Prague. We walked around Wenceslas and Old Town and we went up the Clock Tower. Also we did a bit of shopping. I took everyone to Tatry, which is actually a traditional Slovak place but they didn’t know the difference and they were able to accommodate us. On my recommendation, most people ordered the svickova; beef steak covered in gravy with cranberries and whipped cream served with bread dumplings. It’s certainly not Florentine. I should mention that Taryn, who is in the Prague program and is a friend of Julia’s since freshman year joined us for dinner. Taryn suggested we go to Radost after dinner. Radost has a very cool décor and excellent feel as well as an extensive drink menu. So we all had a good time.

Saturday began a bit earlier as Julia and I decided to return to Radost for their famed brunch. I had never been but had heard good things, which were all true. We met up with some of the girls from Prague including Taryn, Nika, Serena, and Liz. I should say that it is not just me, Julia seems to well like by everyone she meets, including Czech guys which I will get to later. After brunch we headed into Mala Strana to see the Prague Castle. We ventured into the beautiful St. Vitus Cathedral, went to the museum of the history of the castle within the Old Castle, and we went to the Toy Museum. She especially enjoyed the Barbie collection, as she was not allowed to own them as a young girl due to Barbie’s unrealistic attributes which reinforce a consumerist standard of feminine beauty. We also walked the beautiful streets of Mala Strana and looked into the little shops. This is where she got a free post card because the man told her “You look nice. Take it.” By this time it was getting dark and cold and we walked across the Charles Bridge and then went home. For dinner we went to Ambiente Restaurante Brasileiro, part of the chain of Ambientes of which I had only been to the Italian one previously. At the restaurant they have a vegetarian salad bar, which includes sushi and a multitude of meat dishes are served by the waiter/chefs. They each prepare a dish and then they walk around and offer it to you. And one of the waiters took a great interest in Jules when I went outside to take a phone call from a friend of hers who was lost. Anyway, it is incredibly fun, a bit adventurous, quite delicious, and definitely one of the best dinners we ever had. We took it easy that evening, after all we had a lot to digest.
Sunday morning was fun we walked a bit more and did a little more shopping. We were also able to observe some of the St. Nicholas festivities. Sadly we didn’t have much time before I had to bring her back to the airport. It was difficult to do that, but we did have an excellent weekend in Prague. I am really glad I got to share this city that I have come to love so much with her.

The excitement doesn’t stop in Prague. On Monday my internship supervisor, Pavel, took me out for lunch. We went to a place near the office. He recommended steak and I obliged. It was pretty delicious and the only material reward I got from my internship at EWI. Actually that’s not true they gave me a mug and I stole a few office supplies.
On Monday for dinner I met with my Cultural History of the European City class and Professor Musil. He took us to a cool place with a nautical theme and aquariums in the floor that you walked over. I didn’t love the food but the company was good. Professor Musil confessed to us that there were times when some of us spoke quickly and excitedly and he was not able to follow what we were saying. (Liz and I are quite confident that he was talking about us) He also told us that he uses Pat’s eyes as a barometer of sorts. Apparently Pat has a very expressive face and looking at his eyes is an excellent way to gauge the interest level of the class. Towards the end of the dinner he was telling us each something he would miss. (this was just after he told Dan that he was “a quiet American” like the Graham Greene) He mentioned Pat’s eyes and Liz’s energy. He gave me “active mind” so I was pretty happy. It was a very interesting dinner as some of us had more to drink than others.

Last night, Tuesday, began Chanukah. I had received my “Hanukah Box” last week so I was ready to go. I made and put up a simple poster to let people know that we would be lighting a menorah in the kitchen of my suite at 6pm. Actually the poster was pretty funny, I found a picture of President Bush lighting a menorah with a young girl. (No yarmulke, though) My mother had also sent latke mix, so I made a batch with some assistance from Barry. Barry said it best when he said, “We are making mothers all over the tri-state area proud right now.” Quite a few Jews and Gentiles alike stopped by for the lighting and the latkes and it was really quite nice. We will continue to light the menorah in my room, fire hazard or no in our all wood apartment. (Mom, calm down, I really don’t want to see an e-mail about fire safety)

Now that I have segued into holidays, I want to share some of the incredibly interesting stuff I have learned about Czech holiday traditions from Martina, my RA, and now through direct observation. On Saturday, December 4, St. Barbara day is observed. Young unmarried Czech girls pick cherry branches to place in their rooms. If they blossom before Christmas the girl will be married within the year. Martina suggested that I go with Julia to find a branch, but I decided against it. (you never know when one of those pagan rituals will work) On Sunday evening, the eve of St. Nicholas a trio characters go to homes to discover if children have been good or bad and reward or punish them accordingly. They are led by St. Nicholas himself and there is a Devil and an Angel. (I always think of the angel and devil on someone’s shoulder in a cartoon.) On the actual day of Christmas, gifts and even the tree are brought to Czech families by “the Jesus baby”
I’m going to throw in one about Easter too, just because it sounds awesome. Men find young willow branches and then go from house to house using the branches to hit girls on their ass. The youth of the willow branch is transferred to the women increasing her fertility. The women then give the men a present like an egg or possibly a drink. I think it’s a little too sexual to be part of Easter, but I suppose most would complain about the chauvinism of the tradition.
On that note, I’ll stop writing and get back to work on my paper. I still have a bit more to do before the semester is over.